The Home Chemical Almanac Β· Chapter 8
Fragrance
Correct as of November 2026.
If the label says "fragrance" or "parfum"
"Fragrance" is one word standing in for a blend. The fragrance industry's own list of ingredients in use has 3,691 materials on it. Any one scent could be made from dozens of them.
What the label has to tell you:
- Australia: cosmetics can show the whole blend as "fragrance", "fragrances", "parfum" or "parfums". Household cleaning products don't have to list all their ingredients; only scheduled poisons (with their strength) and a disinfectant's active ingredients must be named.
- Europe: cosmetics and detergents must name each listed fragrance allergen above 0.01% (and above 0.001% in leave-on cosmetics). From 31 July 2026, cosmetics must name 56 more allergens; detergents follow from 2029.
- California: cleaning products must name fragrance allergens at 0.01% or more, counting the allergens that come from essential oils too.
The EU estimates that 1 to 9 in every 100 people are allergic to fragrance ingredients.
A word on contaminants: many scent chemicals change once they're exposed to air. Some become much stronger allergens as they oxidise. That's worse in old or opened products. You can't see it on the label.
Cheat sheet
| Chemical | Badges | Smells like | Worst fact | Take care if |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Limonene | β π§ | orange, citrus | Oxidised, it's one of the commonest fragrance allergies | fragrance allergy, old products |
| Linalool | β π§ | lavender, bergamot | Oxidised, it's one of the commonest fragrance allergies | fragrance allergy, old products |
| Citronellol | π§ | rose | Turns into stronger allergens in air | fragrance allergy |
| Geraniol | β π§ | rose | Top-ten fragrance allergen in Dutch and German clinics | fragrance allergy |
| Citral | β π§ | lemon | Poisons Standard for household cleaners above 5% | fragrance allergy |
| Coumarin | π§ | fresh hay, vanilla | Can damage the liver in sensitive people | fragrance allergy |
| Eugenol | β β | clove | Skin turns it into a stronger allergen | fragrance allergy |
| Isoeugenol | β | spicy clove | Rated a possible cause of cancer | fragrance allergy |
| Farnesol | β | delicate floral | Established human allergen | fragrance allergy |
| Cinnamal | β π’ | cinnamon | Can rarely cause a severe allergic reaction | fragrance allergy |
| Cinnamyl alcohol | β | hyacinth | Skin turns it into a stronger allergen | fragrance allergy |
| Hydroxycitronellal | β | lily | Established human allergen, hundreds of cases | fragrance allergy |
| Hexyl cinnamal | β | β | A recommended standard skin allergen in lab tests | fragrance allergy |
| Amyl cinnamal | β | jasmine | On the EU's most-reported allergen list | fragrance allergy |
| Amylcinnamyl alcohol | β | β | On the EU's most-reported allergen list | fragrance allergy |
| Anise alcohol | β | β | Officially classed as a skin allergen | fragrance allergy |
| Benzyl alcohol | β π’ | β | Linked to newborn deaths from IV flush solutions | fragrance allergy |
| Benzyl salicylate | β π’ | faint, sweet | EU found signs of hormone activity | fragrance allergy |
| Benzyl benzoate | β | almond, balsam | Also a scabies treatment | fragrance allergy |
| Benzyl cinnamate | β | sweet balsam | Established human allergen | fragrance allergy |
| Alpha-isomethyl ionone | β | β | In over 1 in 5 scented products tested | fragrance allergy |
| Oakmoss | π§ | β | Contains two very potent allergens the EU banned from cosmetics | fragrance allergy |
| Treemoss | π§ | β | Contains two very potent allergens the EU banned from cosmetics | fragrance allergy |
| Lilial | β π§ | lily of the valley | Banned in EU cosmetics: may damage fertility | pregnancy, fragrance allergy |
| HICC (Lyral) | β | β | Most-reported fragrance allergen since 1999; banned in EU | fragrance allergy |
| Diethyl phthalate | β | β | Phthalate hidden inside "fragrance" | body lotions above 0.5% |
| Galaxolide | π’ | musk | Found in breast milk | pregnancy, breastfeeding |
| Tonalide | β | musk | Found in breast milk | pregnancy, breastfeeding |
| Musk ketone | β | musk | Suspected of causing cancer | β |
| Musk xylene | β | musk | Suspected cancer cause; classed as an explosive | β |
| Triethyl citrate | β | β | Nil: approved as safe in food | β |
β Poison schedule (Australia) Β· β Officially classed skin allergen Β· π’ Made from a hazardous chemical Β· π§ Contaminant risk
The chemicals
Part 1: The listed fragrance allergens
All of these are on the EU's list of fragrance allergens that must be named on labels.
- Limonene β π§
- Linalool β π§
- Citronellol π§
- Geraniol β π§
- Citral β π§
- Coumarin π§
- Eugenol β β
- Isoeugenol β
- Farnesol β
- Cinnamal β π’
- Cinnamyl alcohol β
- Hydroxycitronellal β
- Hexyl cinnamal β
- Amyl cinnamal β
- Amylcinnamyl alcohol
- Anise alcohol β
- Benzyl alcohol β π’
- Benzyl salicylate β π’
- Benzyl benzoate
- Benzyl cinnamate
- Alpha-isomethyl ionone β
- Oakmoss extract π§
- Treemoss extract π§
- Lilial β π§
- HICC (Lyral) β
Part 2: What else hides inside "fragrance"
These aren't scent allergens, but they're often inside the one word "fragrance".
- Diethyl phthalate (DEP)
- Galaxolide (HHCB) π’
- Tonalide (AHTN)
- Musk ketone
- Musk xylene
- Triethyl citrate
Short entries
Citronellol
- Contaminant risk
The worst fact: it turns into stronger allergens (hydroperoxides) on contact with air.
Why brands use it: it smells of rose.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: usually made in a factory from other scent chemicals. It's also found in geranium and citronella oil.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: hydroperoxides, formed in air.
Fair to say: it's one of the less common fragrance allergens.
Farnesol
- Officially classed skin allergen
The worst fact: Europe's safety committee lists it as an established human allergen, with more than 100 reported cases.
Why brands use it: it has a delicate floral smell, and it's also used in deodorants.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: found in lemongrass, citronella, sandalwood and orange blossom oils.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: about 1 in 100 people tested for cosmetic allergy reacted to it.
Cinnamyl alcohol
- Officially classed skin allergen
The worst fact: your skin can turn it into a stronger allergen.
Why brands use it: it smells of hyacinth.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: made in a factory from cinnamal.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: most people never react.
Hydroxycitronellal
- Officially classed skin allergen
The worst fact: Europe's safety committee lists it as an established human allergen with hundreds of cases.
Why brands use it: it smells sweet, floral and lily-like.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: it's a synthetic scent chemical. It has also been found in a few essential oils.
Myth check: "everything in a floral blend is from flowers": not this one.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: most people never react.
Amyl cinnamal
- Officially classed skin allergen
The worst fact: it was on Europe's 1999 list of the most frequently reported consumer fragrance allergens.
Why brands use it: it smells of jasmine.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: made in a factory.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: it's in fewer than 1 in 10 scented products.
Amylcinnamyl alcohol
No badge
The worst fact: it was on Europe's 1999 list of the most frequently reported consumer fragrance allergens.
Why brands use it: a floral note.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: made in a factory.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: it's one of the least-used fragrance ingredients.
Anise alcohol
- Officially classed skin allergen
The worst fact: Australia classes it as "May cause an allergic skin reaction" and as causing serious eye irritation.
Why brands use it: a sweet, anise-like note.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: made in a factory. It also occurs naturally, most notably in Tahiti vanilla beans.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: it's one of the less frequently reported allergens.
Benzyl benzoate
No badge
The worst fact: Europe's safety committee lists it as an established human allergen.
Why brands use it: a balsamic, almond-like note, and it dissolves other scent ingredients.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: naturally in balsam of Peru and ylang-ylang oil, but nowadays made in a factory.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: it's also used as a treatment for scabies.
Benzyl cinnamate
No badge
The worst fact: Europe's safety committee lists it as an established human allergen.
Why brands use it: a sweet balsamic note.
Take care if: you have a fragrance allergy.
Comes from: made from benzyl alcohol and cinnamic acid. It's also found in balsam of Peru.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: it's in fewer than 1 in 40 scented products.
Tonalide (AHTN)
No badge
The worst fact: it's been found in breast milk and body fat, and levels were higher in Swedish mothers who used perfumed laundry detergent.
Why brands use it: a long-lasting musk.
Take care if: you're pregnant or breastfeeding.
Comes from: made in a factory (a synthetic musk).
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: levels in Swedish breast milk fell between 1996 and 2003. The EU caps it in cosmetics.
Musk ketone
No badge
The worst fact: Australia classes it as "Suspected of causing cancer", and it's been found in breast milk.
Why brands use it: a musk scent.
Take care if: nil.
Comes from: made in a factory (a nitro musk).
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: the EU caps it at low levels in cosmetics, and California will from 1 January 2027.
Triethyl citrate
No badge
The worst fact: nil. The US FDA lists it as safe in food.
Why brands use it: it dissolves the scent and helps it last.
Take care if: nil.
Comes from: citric acid joined with alcohol.
Myth check: nil.
Contaminants: nil.
Fair to say: one of the mildest ingredients in this chapter.
Safer alternatives
The safest scent is no scent: look for "fragrance-free". If you want a scent, choose a product that names exactly what's in it, such as the essential oil by its plant name.
Essential oils aren't allergen-free. They contain many of the chemicals in this chapter, and the EU now names some oils, like eucalyptus globulus oil, as allergens in their own right. But at least you know what you're getting. Keep bottles closed and use them up, because these allergens get stronger as they oxidise.
Look for these on the label:
- Fragrance-free
- The essential oil named by plant (e.g. "Eucalyptus polybractea leaf oil")
Sources
Regulators and official lists
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, SCCS/1459/11 (2012); opinion on butylphenyl methylpropional (Lilial), SCCS/1591/17; opinion on benzyl salicylate, SCCS/1656/23. health.ec.europa.eu
- European Commission. Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 Annexes II and III; Regulations (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol, chloroatranol), 2020/1182 (CLP: Lilial Repr. 1B), 2021/1902 (Lilial ban), 2023/1545 (fragrance allergen labelling), 2026/909 (benzyl salicylate). eur-lex.europa.eu
- EU REACH Annex XIV, Regulation (EU) 143/2011 (musk xylene). eur-lex.europa.eu
- EU Detergents Regulation (EC) 648/2004, Annex VII. eur-lex.europa.eu
- SCCP. Opinion on phthalates in cosmetic products, SCCP/1016/06 (2007).
- Australian Government. Poisons Standard October 2026 (F2026L01327): citral, lemongrass oil, eugenol, isoeugenol, coumarin.
- Australian Government. Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020 (F2020L01469). legislation.gov.au
- Safe Work Australia. Hazardous Chemical Information System (HCIS). hcis.safeworkaustralia.gov.au
- California Health and Safety Code Β§108954β108956 (Cleaning Product Right to Know Act); Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act (as amended by AB 60, 2025).
- US CPSC. Final rule on phthalates, 82 FR 49938 (2017). US FDA. 21 CFR 184.1911 (triethyl citrate). US CDC. MMWR 1982 (benzyl alcohol in newborns).
- IARC Monographs vol. 134 (isoeugenol, 2023). US NTP Technical Report 551 (isoeugenol).
- German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR). FAQ on coumarin in cinnamon and other foods.
- IFRA. Transparency List (2025). ifrafragrance.org
Studies
- BrΓ₯red Christensson J et al. Oxidised limonene, patch testing in six countries. Contact Dermatitis 2013 (PMID 23510342).
- Andersch BjΓΆrkman Y et al. Repeated exposure to oxidised linalool. Contact Dermatitis 2014 (PMID 24588367), citing the multicentre study of 2,900 patients.
- Geier J et al. HICC allergy after the EU ban. 2024 (PMID 38146081).
- Reiner JL et al. Synthetic musks in US breast milk. Environ Sci Technol 2007 (PMID 17612154).
- Lignell S et al. Musks in Swedish mothers' milk. Environ Sci Technol 2008 (PMID 18800558).
- Silva MJ et al. Phthalate metabolites in the US population. Environ Health Perspect 2004 (PMID 14998749).
- ΔmikovΓ‘ N et al. Composition of Eucalyptus globulus oil. 2023 (PMID 36903935).